(Bariloche) Western Circuit

Today we went west of Bariloche. We first walked to grounds of Llao Llao ('zow-zow), which is where Obama visited yesterday. We then did a 6 km hike up a Cerrito by the same name, which provided excellent views of numerous other mountain peaks. From there, we continued west to Bahia Lopez where we walked some short trails around the periphery of the beach. Aftwerwards, we set out down some dirt roads to find Colonia Swiss, a village named after Swiss who settled there. Before reaching it, we stumbled upon a German style brewer set up on the corner of two dirt roads. The setting seemed so improbable that we had to stop for a few beers at the outdoor bar.  Once we sampled some IPA's and ales we did find Colonia Swiss. This place was surprisingly fun. Set in the woods in a scene best described as alpine-carnival, the community had home goods retailers, beer, ice cream, meat roasters, dessert and more.  Not only did we have more local beer, but we also had amazing vegan burgers at a sort of food kiosk. After some time walking the grounds of the village, we finished  off our westward circuit with a ski lift ride to the top of Cerro Companario to get one last look at the area around Bariloche.

With that, we thought our day was over until our wonderful hosts, Herci and Julio, invited us over for homemade dinner, dessert, wine and conversation. It was the perfect end to our stay in Bariloche.

(El Bolson) Thanks Obama

It wasn't enough that Obama chose to visit Argentina at the same time that we are here, or even Bariloche, but he had to come and visit Llao Llao which is on the same street that we are staying on. As is the case wherever he goes, our street was subject to closures all throughout the day so that his convoy could move freely. In order to avoid being stuck here, we struck out early on a two hour drive south to El Bolson.

We chose El Bolson because it was largely built up as a result of waves of hippies in the 70's and 80's, and because it is in Patagonia (albeit the far northwestern corner of that region). After another beautiful drive, we found a rather dusty and very transitory town. Waves of backpackers, hitch-hikers and folks who seem down on their luck bring the main street to life, and keep the bus terminal humming. While trying to figure out what to do with our day, we found the best vegetarian meal we have had in Argentina at Jauja (no doubt a vestige of the town's hippie roots) and excellent ice cream at the same place.  Little did we know that, aside from the drive, that meal would be the highlight from Bolson.

We tried to visit a few sights, taking good 'ole Clio through El Bolson's run-down side and up and around some difficult dirt roads. We first visited Cabeza del Indio, a rock outcrop that vaguely looks like a head. Upon reaching the parking lot, we encountered two guys who were collecting money to enter (we think it was above board, but they were comically perched on a fence, eating cheetos and very interested in talking to us about the U.S.  After milking that excursion for all it was worth, we spent about an hour romping around more dirt roads to find the waterfall Cascada Mallin Ahogado, which was not very well marked. Upon arriving we encountered another man collecting money who told us where the bathroom was before the waterfall - that should have been a hint - so we won't even bother posting a photo.

After those two excursions, we made our way back to Bariloche, visiting Lake Muscardi and otherwise enjoying the scenery.  We were able to sneak back down our road before Obama closed it again, and watched the sunset from our deck with a glass of Argentine wine.

 

(Villa la Angostura) We Are Engaged!

As of 3:45 pm we are engaged to be married!!! Argentina was a country that we had always wanted to visit.  Now we know it is a country that a part of us will never leave.

This morning we made the two hour trip from our lodging to Villa la Angostura, two hours around Lake Nahuel-Huapi from west of Bariloche.  At the southern end of that town is a peninsula that is home to the National Park Arrayanes, named after the indigenous tree with a cinnamon colored bark. Right before the end of the 12km hike, during which we were accompanied at various times by stray dogs that seem to have 'turf' all over the peninsula, we approached Laguna Patagua. At Amanda's suggestion, we went down to its shore and sat on a log at the tip of the water, enjoying the peace of this pond in a peninsula in a lake.  After waiting so long for the perfect place to ask Amanda to marry me, it was this quiet, humble pond in Argentina that gave me the courage to tell Amanda how important that she is to me, and to ask for her hand in marriage. After some wonderful time together on that shore, we opted to take a small ferry back the trailhead rather than retrace our steps.

We couldn't be any happier that we are together right now, and take a lot of joy in knowing that we have a lifetime of journeys to come.

(La Ruta de los Siete Lagos) The Drive

After breakfast at a cafe airing a painfully detailed talk-show  breakdown of the security details of Barack's pending visit to Bariloche this week  (stop stealing our vacation ideas OBAMA), we left San Martin to enjoy the Seven Lakes drive. The pictures are self-evident; we had an amazing time visiting lakes Lacar, Hermosa and otherwise seeing lakes Machonico, Villarino, Faulkner, Correntoso and Esejo.

But as is common on vacations, all was not entirely smooth.

First, we took a detour to visit Villa Traful, which all told took about 60km of driving down a sometimes jarring dirt road, especially when you are in a Renault Clio, which is akin to driving a tin can with wheels.  At one point about 15 km into the drive we caught up to a truck that looked like it was about to stall out on a steep hill, until it without warning dumped a pile of dirt right in front of us, entirely blocking the road. Now parked on the hill we thought our journey was over, until a road leveler came around a blind corner and forced us to retreat backwards down the hill. But, within about 2 minutes that driver turned a pile of dirt into a new road that we drove over, continuing on to the villa (which is  stunningly beautiful).

Second, after leaving Villa Traful hours behind our schedule, we finally returned to paved road only to find traffic, of which there ordinarily is none out here, stopped dead and people mingling in the highway. The cause ended up being a protest that blocked all traffic, apparently with the help or tacit support of the federal police. 

Third, after getting to our lake front rental in Bariloche hours late (did I mention that we have full lake access and views from our rental? because we do) we realized that we needed to hustle to get to the market before it's imminent closing. Unfortunately, "the dogs" had other ideas. As soon as we left the gate of our rental, our car was essentially encircled by dogs that were throwing their bodies in front of our car. Rather than run over a dog fifteen minutes after visiting this neghborhood, we ended up parked on the street until the builder of our rental came driving by and showed us how to get out - which is to drive through them, let them chase you to a busy highway and hope (or don't hope) that they aren't run over.

And last, I lost my debit card which created some challenges at dinner, which like most places only takes cash. But now I can cross "leaving dinner at an argentine restaurant to take out a cash advance" off my bucket list.